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LOT # 8

Awayu or Shoulder Cloth
BOLIVIA, SOUTH AMERICA
20TH C.
WOOL
40.5'' L X 36.5'' H

Estimate: $600-800
Starting bid: $175
Current online bid: $175
Item sold

The highest online bid placed for each lot prior to noon 02/25/2011 will be honored as the starting bid in the live auction at Primitive.

Residing historically in the Altiplano region that surrounds Lake Titicaca in modern day Peru and Bolivia, the Aymara people live in a land that is arid and characteristically harsh. And yet for more than 25 centuries they and their ancestors have survived, maintaining their language, religion and traditions despite centuries of outside influence. The Aymara are known for their longstanding tradition of woven goods, and early remnants of Aymara woven objects date from as early as 1300 BCE. Their yarns have been traditionally made on a drop spindle from naturally dyed llama and cotton fibers. The weaves themselves can be made so tightly as to create waterproof garments, and yet they can be both dense and supple, exhibiting a fine drape. Stripes are a very common design motif. Many historians believe that this pattern, while also a result of the warp-face weaving technique, also ties visually to the landscape that surrounds them. The wide bands of color within the garments are often referred to as “pampas” or “plains”, and are thought to tie directly to the topography of the region. For the Aymara, textiles indicate identity. The designs, colors and patterns woven into the material are often associated with a specific allyu (translated as “extended family” or “tribe”), and can help people of different regions identify one another’s lineage as well as financial and social status. Until the 18th century, the Aymara style of dress remained much the same. However, in 1780 in response to a series of somewhat successful Indian uprisings, the Peruvian government prohibited the wearing of traditional garments by Native men in urban centers. Instead they were required to dress in typical Spanish “peasant” garb. In more remote areas these rules were hard to enforce, and many traditional modes of dress remained in some form or another. When expensive aniline (synthetic) dyes were introduced during the 1880s, they became a status symbol among wealthier weavers, as they were able to create more vibrant and durable designs than possible with natural dyes. The Aymara use fabric for both practical and spiritual purposes, There are often spiritual associations tied to the most pragmatic of objects. While certain ceremonial garments might be designated specifically for such milestones as birth, marriage and burial, every textile has its own respective use, name, and magical power associated with it. Today the town of Coroma, Bolivaia holds the largest collection of ancient ceremonial crafts. Each year a representative from each allyu is selected to come and handle that tribe’s collection, wearing it for ceremonial events and simultaneously safeguarding its legacy.

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